Top 6 Walks In Carmarthenshire
It’s got coast, it’s got castles, and it claims the western side of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) – and with all that on the menu it’s no surprise to find that Carmarthenshire also has some excellent walks to try out.
What Carmarthenshire doesn’t have is the crowds of some of the surrounding areas – so if you’re looking for a quieter part of Wales for a hike or a stroll, it’s well worth exploring. And that goes for most visitors, whether you fancy the challenge of scrambling up the Black Mountain or would rather stroll by the seaside en route to an ice cream shop. For both groups – and all those in between – we’ve come up with this list of the best Carmarthenshire walks to inspire you.
With gorgeous walks, cosy country pubs and some great independent restaurants, Carmarthenshire is an excellent place for a short break. That’s particularly true if you choose a camping or glamping holiday – choosing outdoor accommodation will allow you to soak up even more of these lovely surroundings while also keeping a lid on costs. Take a look at our range of Carmarthenshire campsites to find something that suits you.
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Llyn y Fan Fach
The Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park is one of the best places to hike in Wales – and this is said to be one of the best trails within the park, so that gives you a hint it must be pretty good. Llyn y Fan Fach is a gorgeous lake surrounded by soaring sandstone cliffs in the western stretches of the national park – and it’s a fine place for either a short walk or a longer, more challenging hike.
If you’d just like to see the lake itself, head to the small car park near Llanddeusant (keep your eyes peeled as you get close – it’s easy to miss) and simply follow the two-mile riverside path up to the water’s edge. Once you’ve admired the views, you can either make your way back down again or continue on the longer walk to the equally gorgeous Llyn y Fan Fawr lake – this part of the trail is rather steeper, and will extend the route to about 10 miles.
Whichever option you pick, look up as you go along – this area is a real wildlife haven, and you may well spot kestrels, buzzards and red kites soaring overhead. If you’re keen to see the birds up close, make a detour to the red kite feeding station about 10 minutes’ drive away in Llanddeusant.
For more trails in this area, read our guide to hiking in the Brecon Beacons.
Carreg Cennen Castle
If you like to wander dramatic ruins, this is the one for you. Wales has no shortage of medieval castles, but this is surely one of the most scenic – Carreg Cennen is up on a hilltop and visible for miles around. The castle is open to the public, so you can just come along and explore the ruins if you like – it’s a fascinating place with a section built into a natural cave (you’ll need a torch for this bit, so bring one along or hire on site).
For a better appreciation of the castle’s place in the surrounding landscape, a couple of walking routes run through the area just around, taking in scenes of woodland, river and grazing animals along the way. Take the shorter (mile and a half) route or the longer one (just under four miles) – either way, you’ll be able to reward yourselves with something from the café once you get back to the castle.
Dinefwr Castle circular
A little further west is another castle that makes a great focus for a walk – the Dinefwr Park National Trust site, just outside Llandeilo, houses both the 12th-century Dinefwr Castle and the 17th-century mansion Newton House.
Surrounding the whole lot is a huge estate that’s also a national nature reserve – there are all sorts of paths to wander along here, including a main three-mile route that takes you through the deer park and past grazing animals. Dinefwr is a great choice for those seeking somewhere to walk with a dog – you’ll need to keep them on a lead in many areas, but there are no stiles to climb over and dogs are welcome in the café at the end.
There’s a charge to visit the house, and to use the car park, but otherwise Dinefwr is free to visit. It’s also possible to park in Llandeilo and stroll down from there – this also gives you scope to explore the town’s lovely food options once you’ve returned.
If you’re planning to explore the parkland at Dinefwr it’s a good idea to take decent shoes or boots with you – it includes a stretch of the fast-flowing River Tywi, which often spreads out into the floodplain and leaves the ground a little boggy underfoot.
Black Mountain
Here’s a walk that offers a bit more of a challenge – not to be confused with the Black Mountains (over in the east of the Brecon Beacons), the Black Mountain is actually a range of peaks in the west including Fan Foel, Picws Du and Waun Lefrith. Confused? Understandable – and perhaps why the massif is also sometimes known as the Carmarthen Fans.
While most visitors head to the more famous spots in the Brecon Beacons (particularly Pen y Fan), the Black Mountain remains relatively rarely visited, so you’re likely to find plenty of peace and space here. Make no mistake – this area is all about the strenuous walk rather than the gentle stroll, but if you’ve got the legs and the kit for it, the eight-mile Black Mountain hike will reward you with some great views over one of the wilder parts of Wales.
Millennium Coastal Park
Leaving the national park behind, it’s time to head to the coast. The Millennium Coastal Park runs from Llanelli through Burry Port and on to Pembrey Country Park. The whole park covers about 10 miles of coastline, but it’s easy to explore shorter sections if you like. A flat and mostly well-surfaced path runs all the way along the shoreline, making this one of the most accessible coastal walks in Wales, suitable for wheelchair, pushchairs and less-mobile walkers.
Come along here today and it’s hard to believe that this area was industrial wasteland until being redeveloped in the early 21st century – now it’s all nature reserve and lovely sandy beaches, with great views out towards the Gower Peninsula. Along the walk, highlights include the waterfowl lake at Sandy Water Park, the tubby lighthouse in Burry Port and the glorious seven-mile stretch of sand at Cefn Sidan, where you may well choose to cool your feet with a paddle if you’ve done the full walk.
Laugharne Dylan Thomas walk
For a walk with a theme, grab a book of poetry (optional) and set off to Laugharne, on the banks of the River Tâf, to walk in the footsteps of one of the area’s most famous sons. When Dylan Thomas first came here aged 19 he described Laugharne as ‘the strangest town in Wales’ – but it was a place that he found fascinating enough to settle here for the final stretch of his tragically short life.
The four-mile Laugharne circular walk runs past some of the town’s best sights, including medieval Laugharne Castle and the Dylan Thomas boathouse, where you can stop by to see the house (with its original furnishings) and the writing shed where the writer penned poetry while looking over the river. Continue up the hill through some classic Welsh countryside and then return via the church, where you can pay your respects at the poet’s simple grave.
If you’d like to stretch your legs further, add a short stroll on the newer path known as Dylan’s Birthday Walk, which has some lovely sea views and plenty of benches from which to admire them.
Whether you’re visiting the area or live nearby, there are lots of great days out around here – start your to-do list by reading our list of things to do in Carmarthenshire, or get set for the seaside with our guide to Carmarthenshire’s best beaches.
For visitors, there are also lots of fantastic camping and glamping options to choose from – with prices starting from just £10 per night, this is a great area for budget breaks. Take a look at Pitchup’s full range of Carmarthenshire camping and glamping sites to find one that suits you.