9 Things To Do In Carmarthenshire
Visiting Carmarthenshire? In the heart of South West Wales, this county is still somewhat off the tourist trail, and yet it’s packed with hidden gems to see.
Carmarthenshire swoops up from Carmarthen Bay all the way to the craggy Cambrian Mountains and the western edge of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park. It’s known for its legendary associations with Merlin – supposedly born in Carmarthen town – and for its rugged coastline, craggy castles and rolling Welsh countryside.
To help you find all these great days out we’ve put together this list of the best things to do in Carmarthenshire: from Roman relics to rare birds and outdoor activities, here’s your guide to the places you shouldn’t miss.
Such a gorgeously scenic county is of course a fabulous place to spend some time in the open air – and that goes for your accommodation too. There’s a great range of campsites and glamping options around Carmarthenshire, with something for every taste and budget.
Explore all Carmarthenshire campsites
Carreg Cennen Castle
Never mind Carmarthenshire, Carreg Cennen is one of the most scenic castles in Wales. It’s built on top of a dramatic limestone precipice in the Brecon Beacons National Park, with its battlements and towers visible from all around.
The original castle was built in the 12th century by Lord Rhys, before it was later expanded by the Normans; most of the remaining ruins date back to Edward I’s reign. However, evidence suggests that the site may have been in use as a defensive structure since as far back as the Roman and prehistoric eras – you’ll learn all about this fascinating history while you tour the castle.
For an extra bit of intrigue, a secret tunnel leads under the castle to a freshwater spring (you can hire a torch to explore it from the tearooms at the bottom of the hill, or bring your own).
Llyn y Fan Fach
In the Bannau Brycheiniog/Brecon Beacons National Park, at the northern edge of the Black Mountains, Llyn y Fan Fach is so atmospheric that it’s easy to believe in its legends: supposedly, this is where the Lady of the Lake rests. From the ridgeline of Bannau Sir Gaer, the Carmarthen Fans’ rocky slopes pour down into the glassy glacially formed lake to produce a particularly scenic spot.
This is one of our favourite places to walk in Carmarthenshire – you can either take things easy with a gentle stroll around the lake or climb up the mountain slopes for sweeping scenic views. This is a fantastic wild swimming spot too, so you could make like the Lady and go for a dip (just make sure you’re well prepared and careful so you don’t suffer her fate).
The Heart of Wales Railway
The steam-powered Heart of Wales Railway line runs for 121 miles through both Wales and England (from Swansea to Shrewsbury) and was first opened in 1868, making it over 150 years old.
For views, this route can hardly be bettered: it passes 19th-century spa towns like Llandrindod Wells, plus two plunging aqueducts and glorious rural scenery.
We recommend stopping off at any of the stations along the way to walk a section of the Heart of Wales Line Trail (and, more importantly, see the steam trains puffing by in all their glory). You can either choose a circular walk from one of the stations or follow a section of the trail to rejoin the train at the next station.
Pembrey Country Park
It’s all about adventure at Pembrey Country Park. While you could simply get some well-needed relaxation here – the parkland has some 500 acres of glorious nature – Pembrey is also home to a staggering array of activities, ranging from crazy golf and nature trails to dry skiing, horse riding and tobogganing. With several food options and no shortage of things to do, it’s a great family day out.
If you’d like to explore further afield, bring bikes and take a ride along the Millennium Coastal Path: its 19km cycle path leads from Pembrey all the way to the Llanelli Wetland Centre, with fabulous views out over Carmarthen Bay and beyond as you pedal (see below for more info on the wetlands themselves). Alternatively, just bring your beach kit and hit the sands – Pembrey opens out onto the glorious eight-mile Cefn Sidan beach, which tops our list of the best beaches in Carmarthenshire.
WWT Llanelli Wetland Centre
Did you know you could visit a lagoon full of flamingos in Carmarthenshire? It’s true – head to Llanelli Wetland Centre, where you can see flocks of the brightly coloured birds and other exotic and native species scattered over 450 acres of lakes, woodland, gleaming pools and sparkling lagoons. Other wildlife you might see includes kingfishers, water voles and lapwings.
For those visiting with kids, there are wild outdoor play areas to explore, plus an indoor soft play area.
Dolaucothi
Need a rainy-day activity in Carmarthenshire? You’ve struck gold with a visit to Dolaucothi. Looked after by the National Trust, this ancient site is the only known Roman gold mine in Britain. It was established around 74 AD, after which Roman mining continued for the next 200 years. It then lay fallow until the 19th and 20th centuries when the mine was once again used, this time to extract copper.
Visitors these days can explore the Victorian mine workings –including plenty of industrial equipment above and below the surface – and take a tour down the old Roman mine shaft to learn what techniques and technology were used nearly 2,000 years ago.
Away from the mines themselves there’s a fun gold-panning experience and you can roam around the 2,500-acre property on various footpaths.
National Botanic Garden of Wales
If you had to guess where the world’s largest single-span glasshouse was, you might not guess Carmarthenshire. But here it is, at the National Botanic Garden of Wales – a whopping 110m by 60m, with a futuristic design that gives the effect of a transparent spaceship that’s crashed into the ground. It’s just as fascinating inside, too, housing a collection of the world’s most endangered plants in landscapes like a Mediterranean ravine and Chilean fuschia garden.
There’s more to see in the surrounding botanic gardens: stroll past the Japanese Garden’s cherry trees and tea house, walk through wildflower meadows, or explore Regency-era parkland. Dogs are allowed to visit on certain days (check the website for the latest info) and there’s a fun Gruffalo Trail for younger visitors.
Aberglasney Gardens
Aberglasney House is a Grade II-listed mansion surrounded by more than 10 acres of grounds that have been turned into one of the finest gardens in Wales. Themed areas at Aberglasney Gardens (there are over 20) range from naturalistic British woodland to Alpine and Asiatic plantations – plus a walled garden and kitchen garden – but the jewel in the crown here is the Elizabethan cloister garden, lovingly restored to its original condition. Also don’t miss the unique ‘Ninfarium’, which houses a collection of tropical and exotic plants.
Topping off any trip to Aberglasney is something to eat and/or drink from the tea room, which has both a cosy interior and a suntrap of a terrace.
Carmarthen
Legend says that the sorcerer Merlin was born in Carmarthen. Whether or not that’s true, it’s certainly the oldest continually occupied town in Wales, with strong Roman heritage.
It’s the county town, and a place that’s full of surprises – you can expect everything from a vintage steam railway (the Gwili Railway) and coracle racing (at the annual Carmarthen River Festival) to shopping, art galleries and laser tag.
To learn a bit more about the place, head to the Carmarthenshire Museum – it’s housed in a 13th-century building a short drive out of town and well worth a visit.
If you’ve still got time to fill, you might also like to look at our suggestions for things to do in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, only a little way from the Carmarthenshire borders.
For those visiting the area, Pitchup has an excellent collection of camping and glamping options that will help you soak up even more of that scenery – and with prices starting from just £15 per night, outdoor accommodation is an easy way to have an affordable break too.