Sant'Anna Camping al Mare

At nearby Monte Castello (10 minutes' drive), trails wind through pinewoods and Mediterranean scrub past ruins from the Dark Ages to World War II to finish at Punta Manara, taking in views stretching from sea to sky to infinity. If Sestri is a two-for-one-town then it's fairly obvious what the Cinque Terre is about… this famed circuit of five fishing villages (40 minutes) was not long ago only linked by mules. Footpaths are still the favoured way to visit; expect a heady mix of colours and scents, ruins and still-thriving communities. Portofino was the hangout of the jetset even before jets, and it's still a great spot for oligarch-watching with its chic harbour and designer shop enclave. Those preferring geckos to Gucci will love the trails in the surrounding regional park; remains of Saint George (apparently) lie in the church above the town and below you can snorkel the inviting waters. Divers both veteran and virgin head to Portovenere (an hour and 15 minutes) to explore the marine ecosystem and to see a massive underwater Christ statue. You can catch ferries to the islets of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto here, to find caves, ravines and a peaceful vibe.