Camping Les Buis

To Montségur first, for a wander around the village and a look in the small museum and artefacts on the ancient castle high on a rocky outcrop behind – then a climb up to the castle ruins, for lush views across the region from the top of its walls: both trips much recommended. This is fine castle land overall, with the Cathar castle of Château de Puivert within 25 minutes' drive, another at Château de Roquefixade within 35, and the famed and spectacular Château de Foix (45 minutes), the main Cathar castle dating back to the seventh century. Make Foix your definite destination if you only have time to see one of the three: there are self-guided tours in several languages, loads of info for visitors of all ages, and activities of all sorts for the kids. The castle is also home to the collections of the Ariège departmental museum. Going underground, more rocky stuff can be delved into at Lombrives cave (50 minutes), the longest cave system in Europe.