Camping Riva Smeralda

Many people only pass through Messina enroute to the Aeolian Islands: understandable, but a missed opportunity. The Old Town takes on a lovely pink hue at sunset, and snappers will get the best shots of the peninsula from the top of old Norman castle. Those in the know start a walk with a visit to the massive cave, concealing a chapel to Saint Anthony of Padua; the path from there takes you by tempting bathing pools, finishing up with views of the islands from the lighthouse. You can explore the peninsula from trails near the site, and avail yourself of the diving school for a dazzling underwater view. But it’s hard to view the shimmering UNESCO Shangri-la of the Aeolian Islands without wanting to hop on the next boat, so head to the port for a flotilla of ferries out to trek up the still-seething volcano on Stromboli; wander the lush and flower-filled valleys of Salina, mingle among the oligarchs in the chic marina at Panare, or step back centuries on Alicudi, where boats and mules are the only transport. Catania is a little under two hours’ drive away. Lent a certain drama by nearby Mt Etna, the morning fish market in this ancient town is opera, battle and ritual rolled into one.