My Little Swan

In Ludbreg (10 minutes’ walk), the Shrine of the Precious Blood of Christ commemorates a 15th-century miracle and is one of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites. From there, cross the River Bednja to reach Castle Batthyany-Strattmann, where the Chapel of the Holy Cross displays a collection of religious artefacts. Varaždin (half an hour’s drive), at the south-westernmost tip of the lake of the same name, has a pretty town centre with pastel-coloured Baroque buildings. The Stari Grad Castle is home to a well-curated collection of furnishings from the Renaissance to the Art Deco years, while Herzer Palace displays insects and bugs, plus plant specimens. Overlooking an area of lush, dense forest, Trakoscan Castle (an hour and 10 minutes) started life as a fortress in the 13th century. Check out the collections of weapons, animal trophies and tableware, or keep an eye on the event calendar for workshops, talks and temporary exhibitions.