Camping and Hostel Izvor

Capital city Podgorica (15 minutes’ drive) can sometimes be passed over for the more obvious attractions of the big lakes and mountains beyond. Big mistake... wander the still very Ottoman-looking Old Town, visiting the 15th- and 18th-century mosques and the clock tower, imported from Italy in 1667 to summon the faithful to prayer in Western fashion. Also in town, riverside walks to the ruined Ribnica fortress make a mighty fine way to cool off from the midday sun, especially when topped off by a dip of the toes in the water and a picnic lunch. Alternatively, fill up on a vineyard tour at Šipčanik (20 minutes), where miniature train rides around the vines are finished off with tastings and tasty canapes. A similar distance from the site, the menagerie of the Montenegro Animal Sanctuary makes for a heartwarming wander: there are emus and camels abandoned by a passing circus, orphaned bears, injured eagles and piglets you can bottle feed. Who could refuse? To encounter eagles and bears in the wild meanwhile, make for Lovćen National Park an hour away where such specimens roam the wilderness along with boars and wolves, and hardy hikers have a go at Mount Lovćen, the mighty black mountain from which Montenegro derives its name. For walks and bike rides at ground level, Lake Skadar and its surrounding national park are half an hour away, and those hoping for a rest can take boat cruises out to the island monasteries in the middle.