Camping and Village Polvese

Explore more of the lake by hiring a bike on site to hit the waterside path – a full circuit of the lake covers a hefty 71 kilometres, but shorter sections are equally rewarding. For something rather gentler, head to Passignano, on the northern end of the lake, for a boat ride to Maggiore island (look out for local birds as you go – cormorants, kingfishers and kites are often spotted here). The lake shore is dotted with pretty towns and villages to visit, too – seek out Pietro Vannucci’s frescoes in the churches of Città della Pieve and Panicale, wander around the Renaissance Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Miracoli in Castel Rigone or visit the castle and vineyards of Magione. Half an hour away by car is Perugia, the capital of Umbria and a fab place for a day of wandering. Amble through the cobbled streets and piazzas of its historic centre, admiring the splendid mansions and keeping an eye open for local artisans – glassmakers and weavers work here, and there are tasty homemade ice creams, chocolates and cakes to be devoured.