Camping Ganímedes

If you fancy a change from fishing and swimming in the river and horse treks through the valley, turn your gaze skywards with a trip to the Cancana Observatory, 10 minutes' drive away, to travel the worlds beyond this one. There's a wealth of stuff to see, do and sip in the villages dotted throughout the valley, such as Cochiguaz 10 minutes away, with a calendar of rituals and festivals dating back long before the Spanish colonists arrived. The village is also the starting point for hikes and horse treks up to the Laguna El Cepo, a dazzling gem of a glacial lake, 10,000 feet up and a spectacular spot for taking chilly dips at the top of Chile... Sipped with ice and a dozen different ways, Chile's favoured firewater pisco hails from these parts: make for Pisco Elqui half an hour away to tour as many distilleries as you think you can manage. Alongside bottles to take home, you might want to fill your bags, boots and cases with local handicrafts (the market in Horcon 50 minutes away is a hot spot for souvenir buying), as well hosting regular Chilean-style rodeo events. Further up the valley in Alcohuaz (an hour's drive), there's another fine space telescope and a correspondingly spaced out vibe, with local practitioners offering apitherapy and biomagnetism.