Lonely Island Retreat

The lunar-like landscapes of Pag Island are well-worth exploring. Follow the three-hour Life on Mars Trail (named after a certain very famous song) on foot across arid countryside between Novalja (10 minutes’ drive) and Metajna (20 minutes), passing some of the island’s famed dry-stone walls and several spectacular beaches on the way. Stop off for a dip in the sea and a laze in the sun at Ručica (half an hour), backed by barren hills. To learn about Pag’s backstory, jump in the car and head to the gently crumbling remains of Pag Fortress (40 minutes), built in the 17th century to guard the island against attacks from pirates. And if you like a mystery, pay a visit to Pag Triangle (10 minutes), a weird rock formation believed to have been formed by extraterrestrial adventurers (or – more likely – Neolithic hunter-gatherers). Another strangely bizarre place is Old Town Pag (25 minutes), once home to 6,000 people but now almost a ghost town since cholera hit the island in 1852. Have a wander round the ruins of the Franciscan monastery and St Mary’s Church, and then head into the modern town of Pag (also 25 minutes) to feast on island lamb in a beachside taverna.