Climbing in the North York Moors

These days the North York Moors National Park is not as well known for climbing as its near-neighbours, the Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District. Nevertheless, this inspiring region sprawling over 554 square miles (1,436 sq km) still has much to offer in terms of tough crag climbing and bouldering challenges for all levels – unusually for the north of England, these are mainly on sandstone. And of course the backdrop to your outdoor adventuring includes spectacular upland heather moorland, ancient woodland and dramatic seascapes in a landscape that changes with the seasons.

Read on to learn about Pitchup’s favourite climbing locations, how to practise your sport safely and what to do when the weather turns against you. 

Tips for climbing in the North York Moors

As a matter of courtesy, always follow the Countryside Code whenever you’re out on the North York Moors, but when you are climbing there are some safety rules to add into the mix as well. 

Preparation

Thorough preparation is the key to successful and safe climbing. Although the weather and the climbing challenges on the moors are not as severe as some other national parks like the Cairngorms or Loch Lomond and The Trossachs, you still need to be aware of the dangers, so always:

• Ensure your climbing gear is in good condition.

• Check and double check ropes, harnesses and protection devices.

• Use an app or carry a guidebook or map for the appropriate area.

Safety

Following safety rules is absolutely essential when you are climbing; failure to do so can cause unnecessary accidents, injury and occasionally even loss of life. 

• Always wear a helmet and use proper safety equipment.

• Climb with a partner and communicate effectively.

• Be aware of weather conditions and climb within your limits. 

Respect the environment

Combine your passion being outdoors with a concern for the environment and become an eco-friendly climber by adhering to the following rules:

• Always leave nature as you found it; follow Wilderness England’s leave no trace policies by sticking to established footpaths and climbing routes and taking waste home with you.  

• Respect seasonal closures – for example, during the shooting season (August to the end of January) and in spring, when birds like curlews and lapwings are nesting on the moors – and leave any dogs at home.

• Use public transport or carpooling wherever possible, or consider biking or hiking to your destination to reduce your environmental impact. 

• If you can’t avoid driving, park in designated spaces rather than in fields, on the roadside or blocking narrow lanes.

Climbing on sandstone

Most of the climbing in the North York Moors National Park is on sandstone, which brings a couple of specific problems that need addressing.

• Sandstone is easily damaged when wet, so holds can break and layers flake off. Please only climb on dry rock; it’s important to follow local weather reports and wait for a couple days after it has rained for the rock to dry out. 

• You can help preserve sandstone by cleaning your boots before each climb, using a brush with soft bristles to brush out holds and minimising the use of chalk (as it builds up and makes the rock slippery). 

Bouldering guide to the North York Moors

Bouldering – climbing without the use of ropes and harnesses but usually with a crash pad – is the UK’s most popular form of indoor rock climbing, and it's guaranteed to boost fitness, strength and mental wellbeing. When you move your sport outside into the North York Moors, the physical benefits can only be greater. Along with some of the best bouldering spots in the national park listed below, you could consider Stoupe Brow (with great views over Robin Hood’s Bay), quick-drying Finkelstones and Bridestones in Dalby Forest. 

Good to know: The seminal reference for bouldering in the park is the online guide North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering.

The Wainstones

This distinctive crag has long been one of the most popular bouldering spots in the North York Moors, famed for The Needle and The Steeple, two rocky pinnacles that are often on the bucket list for novice climbers. Chances are you’ll find somewhere quieter for Wainstones climbing on the 138 current options, including the classic Sphinx Nose Traverse (V4) bouldering route, or the challenging Cooks Crag, with its assortment of  V1-V5 problems suitable for diverse abilities.

There’s a small free parking area at the top of Hasty Bank; from there, follow the Cleveland Way west to the crag. 

Rock type: Sandstone

Difficulty: All levels of expertise

Best time to visit: All year around; the site faces south-west and gets lots of sun and wind to help the rock dry out quickly. 

Good to know: Any non-climbers can have a hike along the scenic Cleveland Way.

Scugdale

An increasingly popular bouldering venue with a variety of routes for all skills on solid sandstone. If you want to get away from the madding crowds, Barker’s Buttress (over a stile and turn right from the main crag) is less busy than Tippling Wall (5a) or Hangover (4c), and has 15 challenging routes.

There’s some free parking below the crags, otherwise space is limited; perhaps consider carpooling from Swainby village (there’s parking behind the village hall).

Rock type: Sandstone

Difficulty: All levels of expertise

Best time to visit: All year round; it’s sheltered and so is a good option on windy days.

Good to know: There is permissive access only to the crags, so please minimise the impact of your visit and keep any dogs on short leads.

Sport and trad climbing in the North York Moors

Requiring great concentration and physical strength, sport climbing takes place on set courses over short routes with preplaced ropes and bolts. Traditional (or ‘free’) climbing is performed in pairs without ropes, with team leaders placing chocks and bolts up a route rather than relying on pre-prepared ascents.

Whitestone Cliff – sport and trad

The largest crag in the North York Moors National Park has steep and challenging lines on rock that can be unstable, so it’s definitely one for advanced or confident climbers who are skilled enough to assess the risks accurately. Concentrate on the single-pitch routes on the central wall; the Night Watch (VS 4b) is one of the most popular routes and has the added reward of spectacular views over Gormire Lake to the Vale of York, so be sure to take your camera.

There’s paid parking at Sutton Bank National Park Centre.

Rock type: Limestone

Difficulty: Intermediate upwards

Best time to visit: All year round, but watch the weather and wait for a dry spell.

Ravenswick Quarry – sport and bouldering

This former quarry on the southern edge of the park is now a popular bouldering and rope-climbing destination. Ravenswick Quarry is on a limestone crag, so there's not the same problem with the rock needing to dry out after rain. Located near Kirkbymoorside, there’s no problem with access as the area is reached across open land. There’s a gentle area at the foot of the crag that’s suitable for first-timers and kids.

Park in the small layby on Gray Lane and you can walk to the quarry in five minutes.  

Rock type: Limestone

Difficulty: All levels

Best time to visit: All year round, but maybe avoid on hot days as it’s very exposed.

Indoor climbing in the North York Moors

Indoor climbing walls come into their own for three main reasons: firstly, they are useful amenities for practising your techniques, and secondly they act as a safe introduction to climbing for novices and children. And finally – bearing in mind that this is North Yorkshire and the weather can never be fully relied upon –  they are fantastic ‘rainy day’ options for anyone looking to get their share of climbing thrills.

There are a couple of small indoor climbing walls available at Pickering and Malton for testing your techniques. 

• Malton Community Sports Centre
  

• Ryedale Sports Centre in Pickering 

A few larger walls are found on the periphery of the national park, with Middlesborough being about 45 minutes’ drive north, and York about the same distance south. They are:

• The bouldering wall at Rock Antics in Middlesbrough, with a small section for beginners.

• York’s Red Goat Climbing Company with a choice of colour-graded climbing routes and a licensed bar for aprés climb.

• Also in York, Energise has a range of walls for all abilities, plus bouldering challenges and gear hire too.

Outdoor shops

Buy climbing gear and outdoor clothing at outdoor shops in Helmsley, Pickering and Whitby, as well as at major outdoor outlets in York, 45 minutes’ drive south of the park. Visit a dedicated outdoor shop and you’ll probably be on the receiving end of detailed insider knowledge on climbing conditions and weather forecasts.

You can also buy maps from Sutton Bank and Danby Lodge national park centres, and climbing guides online from Needle Sports.

 

With year-round climbing for all skill levels, the North York Moors National Park is a fantastic destination for outdoor enthusiasts, with plenty of challenges for extreme sports fans and a host of taster climbing lessons for novices. If some of your party don’t share your enthusiasm for scrambling up rock faces, there's a whole other world of activities to look at instead, from exploring open moorland on walks or bike rides to learning about the universe with our stargazing guide. 

Lovely moorland villages like Rosedale Abbey, Rievaulx and Danby make great bases for climbing excursions. As you can climb all year round in the park, off-season travel is a great way to avoid the crowds – and many local campsites are open all year round for a bargain place to stay. If you’re looking for a few luxuries – always welcome after a long day in the open air –  Pitchup also has glampsites offering an array of bell tents, cosy wooden pods and lodges. At the other end of the spectrum, for a full-on outdoor experience have a look at our (nearly) wild campsites in the region.