Hiking in the Brecon Beacons

 

Now known by its ancient Welsh name, Bannau Brycheiniog (the former Brecon Beacons National Park) encompasses an impressive 520 square miles/1,347 square kilometres of prime hiking territory. This dramatic landscape takes in remote moorland, steep climbs and undulating ridges with inspiring mountain views.

Our selection of the best Brecon Beacons hiking routes include plenty of challenging options, including the magnificent horseshoe ridge walk around the park’s highest peak, Pen y Fan, along with two consecutive sections of the long-distance Beacons Way. All of them shoud deliver a satisfying day out for even the most seasoned of hikers.

If you prefer something a little more gentle, check out our guide to more family-friendly Brecon Beacons walks.   

The best hike in the Brecon Beacons - The Horseshoe Ridge

 

Length: 10 miles (16 kilometres)
Difficulty: Challenging
Time: 5–6 hours
Start point: Taf Fechan Forest Car Park

There are numerous routes that you can follow around Pen y Fan, but we think this circular walk visiting four of the park’s highest peaks is the best hike in the Brecon Beacons for experienced walkers. Along the way you can visit Pen y Fan itself (886m/2,907 feet), Corn Du (873m/2,864 feet), Cribyn (795m/2,608 feet) and Fan y Big (719m/2,359 feet). The terrain features steep climbs, unmade pathways and an airy ridge walk, rewarding the adventurous with some spectacular views. 

Horseshoe Ridge route:

From Taf Fechan car park, head north towards the Lower Neuadd Reservoir and make the steep climb to Craig Fan Ddu ridge, where the summit of Pen y Fan dominates the view ahead. 

Head north along the ridge towards Corn Du. Stop to admire the glacial valleys to your right – a humbling reminder of the vast geological powers that shaped the park. 

At Bwlch Duwynt, head straight on to visit the Bronze Age cairn at the peak of Corn Du before returning to the path.

Continue along the ridge to the summit of Pen y Fan. Take a breather and congratulate yourself for your efforts.

After the steep descent from Pen y Fan you join the path down Craig Cwm Sere, then it’s a steep climb to the summit of Cribyn for a memorable view of Pen y Fan’s vertical north-east face.

From Cribyn’s cairn, follow the ridge along the back of the peak. Take care – this stretch is often boggy due to the eroding peat.

Continue down to the Gap Road, with a detour to the summit of nearby Fan y Big If you still have some energy to burn.

Return to the road, turn right and continue back to the car park.  

Other great hikes in the Brecon Beacons

Here are a couple more suggestions for serious hikes in Bannau Brycheiniog, taking in two of Pitchup’s favourite sections of the renowned Beacons Way.  

The Beacons Way

It takes around eight days to complete the whole of the 99-mile (159km) long-distance Beacons Way. Covering the length of the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, it includes many demanding climbs and descents, and limited waymarking and remote terrain mean that map-reading skills are essential. All of these things make it a good choice if you’re seeking solitude, access to lesser-visited areas and a proper challenge. 

Of course, we know that not everyone has that much time to spare, so we’re suggesting two consecutive sections of the route – hikes that include testing climbs and open moorland with no waymarking. 

These are trails for experienced hikers, so make sure you’re well prepared. Check the weather forecast before you go – high winds and heavy rain could add an extra level of difficulty to the more severe sections. We’d recommend hiking in spring or summer, when longer daylight hours and better weather are on your side. Proper bad-weather gear, a compass and Ordnance Survey maps of your chosen area are essential.

Storey Arms to Craig-y-Nos

Length: 14.5 miles (23.5 kilometres)
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: 6 hours
Start point: Storey Arms

This route is in a quiet area of the park – if you’re lucky, you’ll have the trail to yourself. Keep your eyes peeled for buzzards, kestrels and peregrine falcons soaring on the air currents above, and look out for Arctic-alpine wildflowers like purple saxifrage and serrated wintergreen on north-facing rocky cliffs. 

Route:

From Storey Arms, follow the rugged path to the edge of the escarpment above the Craig Cerrig Gleisiad a Fan Frynych National Nature Reserve. From the plateau at the summit, continue along the ridge of Fan Dringarth and Fan Llia.

Continue down from Fan Llia, then join the Sarn Helen Roman Road.

Cross the Nedd Fechan footbridge and continue up onto the hill. Turn right across the moor. and over the stile into Ogof Ffynnon Ddu National Nature Reserve.

Descend on the path that passes the old quarries, following the track that eventually turns left on the tarmac road.

Turn right into the Brecknock Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve and descend along the track into Craig-y-Nos Country Park.

Craig-y-Nos to Llanddeusant

Length: 10 miles (16 kilometres)
Difficulty: Hard
Time: 5 hours
Start point: Craig-y-Nos 

This route includes a steep climb onto 820-metre (2,690-foot) Fan Brycheiniog. The highest point in the western Brecon Beacons, it overlooks Llyn y Fan Fawr, the highest glacial lake in south Wales. On a clear day you can see as far as the Bristol Channel and the Somerset/Devon coast to the south.

Route:

Follow the bridleway north from Craig-y-Nos Country Park, then take the footpath to the west of Pwllcoediog Farm.

Turn right at the Outdoor Centre, crossing the fields to the Tafarn y Garreg pub. 

Follow the path to the left of the car park to the footbridge, passing east and north of Ty Hendry.

Continue up to Allt Fach, and follow the ridge of Fan Hir to Fan Brycheiniog and Fan Foel.

Turn west, then follow the trail north from the hill.

Cross the footbridge and follow the road to the youth hostel at Llanddeusant.

More points of interest on the Beacons Way

The Bannau Brycheiniog National Park is dotted with standing stones, burial cairns, historic sites and Roman remains. If you’re enough fortunate enough to be embarking on the full eight-day hike, look out for:

• Llanthony Priory: The elegant remains of this 12th-century Augustinian priory are cradled in a lush green valley at the end of the first day’s walk. Artists inspired by this beautiful site include J M W Turner, whose painting is on display at the Tate Gallery in London. 

• Partrishow Church: Stop off on your second day to view this church’s impressive carved-oak rood screen and medieval wall paintings, including a skeletal depiction of Death holding an hourglass. If your feet are sore already, the waters of nearby St Ishow’s Well are reputed to have healing powers.

• The ‘diving board’ at Fan y Big: This natural rock platform is a popular spot for photos, with incredible views of Pen y Fan, Cribyn and Corn Du.

• Maen Madoc: This lofty standing stone on the Sarn Helen Roman road marks the site of an early Christian burial.

• Bronze Age cairns: Substantial cairns at the top of Garreg Las, Pen-y-Fan, Corn Du and Fan y Big are testament to many centuries of human occupation in Bannau Brycheiniog.

• Iron Age hill forts: The final day of this iconic trek takes you past both Y Gaer Fawr and Garn Goch, an Iron Age hill fort with superb views over the Towy Valley.

We’re sure that by now you’ll be itching to experience our pick of the best hikes in the Brecon Beacons. All you have to do to see all of these fabulous sites, and to experience the many pleasures of the Bannau Brycheiniog, is to lace up your boots and get hiking.