La Livada

As well as hiking and cycling on Ferma la florika (five minutes’ drive) trails or along the forest tracks in Pădurea Gâltofani Scenic Forest (20 minutes), active types can go fishing on the Topolog river (10 minutes ) and take a dip in the Olt river at Călimănești (45 minutes) or in the spa town’s several hot springs. Another pretty hillside settlement is Băile Olănești (50 minutes) – a place of naturally heated thermal waters and woodland walks. To admire more natural wonders, head for the dramatic Lotrișor Waterfall in Cozia National Park (an hour), and for things manmade, tour the ornate 14th-century Cozia Monastery (50 minutes) to see its jewel-like stained-glass and well-preserved frescoes. Another historic monastery is found at Curtea de Argeș (40 minutes), and for underground wonders, visit the dazzling caverns at Ocnele Mari Salt Mine (half an hour). Longer jaunts by car or bike take you north to the Transfăgărășan mountain pass (three hours); take a few pictures when you’ve got to the top just to prove you were brave enough to navigate the famous switchbacks.