Les Roulottes de la Ferme des Chanaux

Assuming that local walks have whetted your appetite, the 45-minute drive to Agizoux takes you to the head of a fab forest trail finishing in a thundering waterfall; you can carry on from there to explore the gorges and whitewater rafting thrills of the Allier river. Vorey, Saint-Privat-d’Allier and Brioude (25, 45 and 50 minutes' drive away) are popular spots for downriver canoeing and kayaking expeditions; the latter, if you prefer maximum views with an easier ride, is where you catch the tourist train down to Langogne an hour's drive from the site. Château-hunters have rich pickings in these parts: the 13th-century Château de Lavôute-Polignac (half an hour) occupies a precarious position on the banks of the Loire, the forested hills behind seeming to push it into the waters. Vying with it in the drama stakes are the ruins of Bouzols (50 minutes) crumbling over the adjacent canyon. As well as being famed for its green lentils, Le Puy-en-Velay (50 minutes) is the starting point of a major pilgrim route and has blended the natural volcanic landscape with spirituality to great effect. The 10th-century Chapel St. Michel d’Aguilhe sits on top of a steep conical rock reached by a great many arduous steps while nearby a pink Madonna and Child smile down from another geological pillar; both reward visitors with some of the best views around.