Best Hiking Trails in Exmoor
Exmoor may be one of the UK’s smaller national parks, but what it lacks in size it certainly makes up for in variety. With coast, moorland, woodland, hills, rocky valleys and heritage sites all packed into a fairly small area, hikers heading here can expect plenty of diversity without having to travel too far between trails.
As this is also the UK’s least-visited national park, it’s also a particularly good choice for those who like more peaceful hikes and less-travelled trails. This can mean that in some cases, trails are tricky to follow (especially in very wild areas like the Chains) so it’s important to pick your route well and head out armed with both a GPS device and a paper map if possible.
In this guide we’ll cover all sorts of hikes, including coast walks, moorland trails and heritage hikes, with everything from well-known trails to proper wilderness experiences. Most of these are at least moderately challenging, so if you’re after an easier way to explore Exmoor on foot, check out our guide to Exmoor walks, which has shorter and family-friendly options.
Coastal path hikes
Exmoor is home to the highest coastline in England and Wales, so you can be sure of some dramatic scenery if you pick a coast walk in this area. Pitchup’s keen hikers have chosen a couple of favourite Exmoor coast walks to whet your appetite.
South West Coast Path
Stretching for 630 miles (1014 kilometres) around the entire coastline of south-west England, you’ll be walking for many days on end if you try to complete the whole of the South West Coast Path. Handily, the long-distance trail also lends itself to being split into sections for day walks, which are listed on the South West Coast Path website.
According to those who have completed the entire trail, the 35-mile stretch of the South West Coast Path that runs through Exmoor (from Minehead to Combe Martin) is one of the most scenic parts of the path. Even if you choose a short stretch it’s not easygoing, with plenty of ups and downs as you make your way between rugged cliffs and secluded beaches.
Enthusiastic hikers will, however, be rewarded with some fabulous seaside views – highlights include Valley of Rocks (and its famed feral goats), pretty Porlock Weir and Great Hangman, the highest sea cliff in England. Read the full trail guide for more information on the Exmoor stretch of the South West Coast Path.
Heddon’s Mouth
Length: 2.8 miles (4.5km)
Difficulty: Challenging
Time: 2 hours
Start point: Hunters Inn
The rocky cove at Heddon’s Mouth was once the preserve of smugglers but these days it’s overseen by the National Trust. It’s a special spot where the woodland runs down to the sea between some of the highest cliffs anywhere in England. A shorts but fairly challenging circular trail from Hunters Inn takes you out through the steep valley to the coast, with lots of wildlife to be seen along the way.
If you want an easier stroll, stick to the National Trust’s lower-level path, which is fairly flat and easy to follow.
Woodland and riverside hikes
If you’d like to focus your attention inland, there are numerous fantastic woodland or riverside hiking trails to follow in Exmoor. Try out a couple of our top picks here.
Watersmeet to Countisbury
Length: 3.5 miles/9.7miles (5.6 km/15.5 km)
Difficulty: Challenging
Time: 2 hours/5.5 hours
Start point: Countisbury
There are two great options for a walk from Countisbury to Watersmeet, the pretty spot where the East Lyn River meets Hoar Oak Water. The first is a shorter circular walk through the woods and along the riverbank, while the other is a longer figure-of-eight walk that also takes you over to the west of Lynton and brings you back along the coast path.
Both trails are fairly challenging, but include lots of places where you might spot wildlife such as otters or salmon in the river, and give you the chance to have a rest at the Watersmeet tea room. Follow the longer trail and you’ll also visit Lee Abbey and skirt the Valley of Rocks.
Horner Wood to Dunkery Beacon
Length: 7 miles (11 km)
Difficulty: Challenging
Time: 4-5 hours
Start point: Horner Wood car park
This long but lovely hike sums up some of Exmoor’s variety, taking you through deciduous woodland and climbing up to the top of Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on Exmoor (and, at 519 metres, the highest point in southern England outside of Dartmoor). As you’d expect, that means a fair amount of elevation on this trail – you’ll climb and descend 475 metres en route – but the rewards are the stunning views all the way across Exmoor and over to Dartmoor and the south Wales coast on a clear day.
Moorland hikes
With the word ‘moor’ being right there in the park’s name, it’s no secret that Exmoor has some fabulous moorland hiking trails to follow. Choose one of these for wide open spaces and the chance to spot animals like wild ponies.
Dunkery Beacon circular
Length: 2.5 miles/6 miles (4 km/11 km)
Difficulty: Moderate/challenging
Time: 1 hour/2.5 hours
Start point: Dunkery Beacon car park
If you don’t fancy the woodland trail listed above, there are several other ways to incorporate Exmoor’s highest point on your hiking adventures. Starting from the Dunkery Beacon car park, you can either follow a short route that simply takes you to the top of the hill and back, or a longer trail that explores a bit more of the surrounding moorland. Either way, you’ll be treated to some amazing panoramic views of the moors; make sure to snap a picture of yourself with the plaque on top of the cairn to prove that you made it all the way up there.
The Chains ridge hike
Length: 11.5 miles (19 km)
Difficulty: Challenging
Time: 7 hours
Start point: Layby on B3358
The Wikipedia entry for the Chains makes it sound rather unpromising – this plateau in the north-west of Exmoor apparently ‘has few distinguishing features’. In reality, if you’re looking to experience the true wildness of the moors, this is the place to be – you can expect wide open spaces, terrain marked by peat bogs and landscapes untouched by human interference. Very few people make their way up to this remote wilderness area, so you can also expect pretty much silent trails.
The lack of visitors does mean that trails are not well marked, however, and it’s easy to take a wrong turn – so this area is very much for experienced hikers only. The trail we’ve chosen has printed instructions and a GPX file available, but it’s well worth taking a map and compass with you to help you stay on your intended path.
Historic and scenic routes
Hiking on Exmoor isn’t all about the landscapes, as mesmerising as they are. There’s also a good deal of heritage to discover as you travel around the park. Try one of these trails to introduce you to some of the park’s past and see how these settings have inspired creative endeavours.
Tarr Steps to Withypool
Length: 7 miles (11.5 km)
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: 4 hours
Start point: Tarr Steps car park
The ancient Tarr Steps clapper bridge, in the south of Exmoor, is one of the park’s iconic sights. No one quite knows how long this stone bridge has been in place over the River Barle, but the Scheduled Ancient Monument is certainly one of Exmoor’s most scenic spots these days.
As there’s parking near the bridge, it’s easy just to take a quick stop here for a short walk and snap a few pics of the bridge. The scenery around here is lovely though, so it’s well worth following this moderately challenging trail to Withypool for an enjoyable riverside walk that’s got a bit of everything: heritage, attractive views, wildlife-spotting opportunities and a pretty village with a pub, a tea room and its own historic bridge.
Badgworthy Water and Doone Country Loop
Length: 7.5 miles (12 km)
Difficulty: Moderate
Time: 3.5 hours
Start point: Lorna Doone car park
If you’ve ever read R D Blackmore’s famous novel Lorna Doone, you’ll be familiar with descriptions of the magical valley that’s now been adopted by the National Trust under the name Lorna Doone Valley.
There are several walking trails around this site, but the full Doone Country Loop is one of the best, allowing you to follow in the footsteps of young John Ridd as he makes his way up to Badgworthy (pronounced ‘Badgery’) Water.
The scenery here has changed little since the 17th century (when the book was set), so you’ll be treated to some classic landscapes with riverside trail sections and ponies to spot along the way. This walk is particularly beautiful in autumn, when the trees turn golden.
If you’ve not read the book yet, we’d suggest picking up a copy to whet your appetite for this hike.
Multi-day hikes
If you’ve got a bit more time on your hands and fancy a good hiking challenge, there are a couple of great long-distance trails that take in Exmoor. You’ll need to be well prepared and pretty fit to take on either of these, but you’ll be rewarded with a whole lot of fabulous scenery and a sense of achievement when you reach the end.
Two Moors Way
Can’t decide between Exmoor and Dartmoor? Here’s a way to solve that dilemma: the Two Moors Way runs the whole length of both parks, starting at Ivybridge on the southern border of Dartmoor and heading up to the coast at Lynmouth. The 102-mile trail takes between five and 10 days to complete, depending on whether you like to march forth or take your time. Along the way you’ll hike through some spectacular scenery, pass historic sights and quite possibly see all sorts of local wildlife.
The route is fairly well signposted, but it’s definitely worth having a good GPS system to make sure you don’t stray from the trail. The detailed ‘Walking the Two Moors Way’ book by Anne Viccars is a very useful thing to pack, and there’s also lots of handy info on the Two Moors Way website, including contact details for luggage transfer services if you don’t want to carry all your gear between accommodations. You can also find suggestions here for shorter walks if you’re not up for doing the entire trail.
Coleridge Way
Slightly shorter but still a significant challenge, the 51-mile Coleridge Way links Exmoor with the Quantock Hills. Starting in Lynmouth and heading to Nether Stowey (or vice versa), the route passes through all sorts of terrain including moorland, heathland, farmland and woods, passing through a number of villages on the way. Follow the quill signposts all the way and you should be able to complete the trail in around six days or so, making it an ideal choice for a week’s holiday with a bit of relaxation time at the end.
Preparing for a long-distance hike
Taking on a multi-day hike needs a fair amount of preparation, both in terms of packing well and ensuring you’re fit enough to enjoy the experience. The Long Distance Walkers Association has some good advice on what to pack for a long-distance hike, and this Backpacker article suggests some good exercises to help you improve your fitness and mobility.
It’s also highly recommended to book accommodation in good time so you don’t end up having to go far out of your way to get to your overnight stay. Staying at campsites is a good way to make this a budget-friendly holiday – Pitchup has plenty of options for campsites across both Somerset and Devon.
Guided hikes and hiking events
If you’d like to connect with like-minded hikers or get to know the area a bit better through expert local guides, time your visit to include a walking festival or a guided hike.
Exmoor Running and Walking Festival
Bringing together several well-loved events on one weekend in June, the Exmoor Running and Walking Festival is a great sociable event that celebrates all sorts of Exmoor outdoor activities. Group walks follow routes of either 15 or 30 miles, and there’s also a three-mile family walk to help you get the kids into hiking.
Running alongside the walks are several running events of various lengths (again including a kids’ option), sunset swims and social events including guest speaker sessions and film screenings. Check out the website for full details of dates and events.
Exmoor guided hikes
If you’re not confident in your own navigation skills, are travelling solo or just like the social nature and local insights you get from a group outing, have a look for guided hikes or group walks in Exmoor. Below we’ve listed some of the organisations that run outings throughout the year.
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Exmoor Society has a busy programme of walks including family-friendly nature walks and longer coastal or moorland hikes. Numbers are limited so you’ll need to book a space online before joining up – walks are free but you can add a donation to help keep the society running.
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Wild About Exmoor runs occasional guided walks through some of the park’s best scenery, often with refreshments en route to make things more sociable. The company also runs stargazing events to help visitors understand what they’re seeing in this International Dark Sky Park.
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Exmoor National Park runs a series of volunteer-led walks throughout the summer months, often following a theme to give guests a greater insight into the park’s landscapes or history. Tickets are free but need to be booked in advance. You can also usually find more themed walks included on the park's events listings page.
Planning your Exmoor hiking trip
With everything from remote moorland to craggy cliffs, and short walks to multi-day hikes, Exmoor National Park is a fabulous destination for hikers, whether you’re an experienced hiker or just taking your first steps. For more inspiration, take a look at routes suggested on the Exmoor National Park website or the mapped interactive trails at AllTrails.
Don’t forget that a lot of Exmoor’s terrain is quite exposed, so you’ll need to be prepared with sun cream, warm layers and waterproofs whatever the weather looks like when you’re setting off. Exmoor doesn’t have as many towns and villages as some national parks, so it’s also a good idea to stock up on snacks before setting off, and double check opening times for any planned café/pub pitstops.
Hiking is a great activity that has excellent health benefits and is very cheap. Stretch your travel budget even further by staying at an Exmoor campsite – prices start at just £15 per night for two adults, and as a bonus you’ll be able to soak up even more of that special scenery.