Kampaoh El Palmar

Surfing groupies will want to be straight off to El Palmar beach (10 minutes’ walk), one of the best Costa de la Luz spots for beginners – there are surf schools backing the sand – but with plenty of decent waves to keep experts happy. Non-surfers can laze in the sun or hang out in casual ‘chiringuito’ beach bars. Walkers and naturalists may like to head for Breña y Marismas de Barbate Natural Park (20 minutes’ drive) to spot waders and gulls on the marshland, or hike though umbrella pine stands – home of finches and hoopoes – to the rocky headland and landmark lighthouse at Cape Trafalgar. If you fancy an urban day out, historic and impossibly handsome Cádiz (40 minutes) fits the bill with its impressive Santa Cruz Cathedral, Phoenician ruins and the brace of castles bookending popular La Caleta beach. Have a wander around Plaza de España and the leafy, fountain-filled Alameda Apodaca park before retiring to a bar along the cobbled alleys of La Viña for early-evening tapas.